FMP – Skirt and Strip Toile 08/05/2018 – 09/05/2018

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One of my weekly targets for the week commencing 07/05/2018 was to complete more design ideas and I decided to do this in 3D form, like the week before. I first started off by using satin back crepe and cut it into bandage like strips as I know I want the top half of my garment at least to resemble a bandage dress inspired by Hérve Léger. I wrapped this around the bodice of the mannequin and pinned it into place so everything else I put on there could be based around the strips. These worked well because they were very tight against the body and truly looked like the beginning of a bandage dress.

Then, I started working with some netting, which was what I potentially wanted for the underneath of a long flowing skirt like Valentino. I gathered the netting up by hand then pinned this to the mannequin also. This also worked well because the gathering got a lot of volume and this is what I want for the underskirt.

Seeing the netting gathered together with the bandage strips really gave me an idea for the style of dress but I want to make along with the silhouette I would like. The two pieces really fit well together. I then wanted to see if I can get even more volume by adding the silk satin material I had previously made samples on over the top, also gathered. This created a lot more volume and enabled me to see what a full skirt would look like with the contrasting tight fitted bandage style top. The volume is exactly how I wanted it and the top and bottom part really flowed well together and managed to look like two separate pieces and one dress together at the same time.

I then started to gather longer pieces of the same silk satin fabric and I again gathered this by hand as I feel I get to control the volume more when gathering by hand as opposed to machine gathering. Actually being able to visualise the long flowing skirt solidified that I do want to make a combination of a tight fitting top half and a long flowing skirt, to incorporate two of the most influential designers for my project – Hérve Léger and Valentino – as well as my own personal vision and influence from my samples.

Also the chain print and the pink from the skirt work really well together because of the similar pink colours used so the outfit flows better together. I can really envision the tight top half leading into the flowing bottom half because of this toiling. 

I then added my continuous line fabric stitch samples to the bottom of this toile to see what they would look like at the bottom, which is where I originally wanted them. In my opinion, and in the opinion of some of my classmates who I asked, the faces look better near the bottom because the words that I am going to sew can then flow into the faces and there is a designated area for them. Testing out the faces by pinning the samples to this mock up has worked really well as it has helped me finalise on an idea for the scale and composition of my design.

Toni ♥

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